In the south France just inland from the Atlantic coast, hills roll with miles of grapevines. Among the vineyards immense chateaus with famous names hide behind walled compounds, and every visitor to the region wants to get behind the walls to take the tours. Chateau Lafite-Rothschild, Chateau Latour and others among the most famous of the estates require a significant amount of forethought, and perhaps cash to get in, or you have to join one of those expensive Bordeaux wine region tour packages.

Of course, the wines the famous Chateaus create are among the most sought after and expensive in the world, but hidden between the vineyards of the big estates are smaller houses making equally as enjoyable wines. And these smaller estates are far more approachable for tour opportunities.

My visit to Chateau Peyrabon happened on a Tuesday afternoon, and the two of us were personally taken through the winery. Today, Chateau Peyrabon is owned by the larger wine company Millésima, but the personal and casual attention given during the tour was wonderfully relaxing. To make the afternoon even better, our tour was free and included a tasting.

Besides a vineyard tour, it is an absolute necessity to stop at one of the wine museums in the area. Chateau Mouton-Rothschild just 1 km north of Pauillac has the finest of these museums.

A quick jaunt west and north from Pauillac takes you to the Aquitaine coast along the Atlantic Ocean and the beautiful long stretches of beach. Each village in the region seems to have its own open market days during the summer, and my favorite was at the seaside town of Montalivet-les-Bains.

So, when you visit Aquitaine, be sure to make the following experiences a part of your trip:

• the open street markets (check the local papers for the days of the week each town has its own open market)
• the wine sold "en vrac" (in bulk) which you can fill yourself from a tap at the liquor stores into one-litre plastic water bottles
• walking to the boulangerie (bakery) for fresh bread in the morning and once again in the afternoon
• watching the stores shut down at noon for a couple hours, and being forced to relax
• spending time on the warm beaches in the summer sun, or going surfing

These are the things, which make Aquitaine a relaxing experience. These are also the things, which make the experience affordable in a region, which creates the world’s most expensive wines.

My French villa holiday could not have been better. As an American who expected to find people rude to me simply because of who I am and where I come from, I was also pleasantly surprised to find that the stereotype about the French is incorrect – especially in Aquitaine. People were friendly and helpful. A visit will make you want to call this place home.

By Phil Wyman from My One Thousand Things